The Kokoda campaign commenced on 21 July 1942 from the Japanese beach landing sites, in the vicinity of Gona on the northern side of Papua and New Guinea. On or about 17 September 1942, following fierce jungle fighting in some of the most mountainous country in the world, the Japanese Imperial Forces, in the vicinity of Iroibaiwa Ridge, commenced their long withdrawal back to the beaches.
The entire campaign lasted nearly 6 months to the day with the Japanese beach foothold at Sanananda falling on 22 January 1943. The Australians loss was 2,019 killed and 3,533 wounded. The Japanese loss was approximately 13,000 killed and an unknown number wounded. This was a campaign fought in appalling conditions, with gun battles being waged in extremely dense jungle across steep terrain. Compounding this was days of torrential rain with both Armies suffering many battle casualties from illness and diseases such as malaria and dysentery.
The Kokoda Trail became the axis for the Japanese crossing of this mighty jungle range. The best description of the wartime track was given by Colonel Kingsley Norris (assistant director of medical services of the 7th Division) in September 1942, at the height of campaign:
Imagine an area of 100 miles (160 kilometres) in length. Crumple and fold this into a series of ridges, each rising higher and higher until 7,000 feet (2,100 metres) is reached, then declining in ridges to 3,000 feet (950 metres). Cover this thickly with jungle, short trees and tall trees, tangled with great entwining savage vines. Through the oppression of this density cut a little native track, two or three feet (60 or 90 centimetres) wide, up the ridges, over the spurs, round gorges and down across swiftly-flowing mountain streams. Where the track clambers up the mountain sides, cut steps - big steps, little steps, steep steps - or clear the soil from the tree roots.
Every few miles, bring the track through a small patch of sunlit kunai grass, or an old deserted native garden, and every seven or ten miles build a group of dilapidated grass huts - as homes - generally set in a fowl, offensive clearing. Every now and then, leave beside the track dumps of discarded, putrefying food, occasional dead bodies, and human foulings.
About midday and through the night, poor water over the forest so that the steps become broken, and a continual yellow stream flows downwards, and the few level areas become pools and puddles of putrid, black mud. In the high ridges above Myola, drip this water day and night over the track through a fetid forest grotesque with moss and glowing phosphorescent fungi. Such is the track…
Eora Creek, during the Japanese withdrawal and Australian advance, was the site of the single biggest battle of the Kokoda campaign fought in the Owen Stanley Range. More Australian soldiers (79) lost their lives in this battle than in any other single battle in the mountains.
The battle commenced on 22 October 1942 continuing for four days and nights. The Australian 16th Brigade, including the 2/1st, the 2/2nd and the 2/3rd battalions, only recently committed to battle, were involved in appalling conditions.
The Japanese held the high ridge over the Eora Creek Gorge, giving them a significant geographical advantage against the Australians. Adding to the physical advantage was the fact that the Japanese had established well-positioned mountain gun and machine gun holdings. Australian officers and soldiers had recorded that the Japanese had sited an “excellent” defensive position, with only one critical flaw.
Despite the superior locations held by the Japanese, they had neglected to position themselves at the highest ground point in the area, positioning themselves around the only water on the ridge – this allowed the Australians to get above them, ultimately leading to success.
On 29 October 1942 the Australian troops were unopposed. An official Australian count of the enemy found that the bodies of 69 enemy soldiers were found, although it is widely thought that many more enemy soldiers were unaccounted for. The Australian toll came to 79 dead and 145 wounded. Of the 79 dead, five Australians at the Battle of Eora Creek were declared missing presumed killed in action.
An Alola Village secret for 68 years, the exact location of the battlefield has remained undiscussed and undiscovered – until now.
The locals call the site “Japanese Hospital” as they believe, as we now do, that the site was a Japanese care centre or advanced medical centre during the Japanese advance some months earlier. Village elders have indicated that the site was so well used during the advance that it was known, and still referred to, as “Jap Road”. In fact, the Japanese had built a stair case from the high ground of the site all the way down and to the south-east to the vicinity of Eora Creek. This staircase, similar to the Golden Staircase built by the Australians at Imita Ridge facilitated the same needs. It assisted with the movement of supplies forward and the sick and injured back to the “Japanese Hospital”.
Many Japanese medical artefacts and implements have now been found at the site. These include surgical knives, medical vials, an anaesthetic inhaler and numerous kidney shaped medical dishes.
While the site was first a care centre or dressing station during the Japanese advance and became a major battle site some two months later during the Japanese withdrawal.
Brian Freeman, who was privy to the secret and the subsequent discoverer of the site, has provided the following:
“I’ve personally led well over 35 treks across Kokoda,and in the past 10 years, in treks alone, I’ve spent very close to a full year on Kokoda.
I was involved with planning the first Anzac Day Service on Brigade Hill and then planned, organised and ran the Isurava Memorial Anzac Day Service in 2004, 2005 and 2006. I have led Kokoda programs for the likes of the Kevin Rudd, Joe Hockey, Mal Brough, Lachlan Murdoch, John Singleton, Geoff Dixon, Mal Meninga, Allan Border, Vicki Wilson and the Hawthorn Football Club.
In 2005 I set the world record for the fastest one-way unsupported, self-navigated crossing of Kokoda in 24 hours and 59 minutes.
I am deeply honoured that the people of Alola Village trusted me with the location of The Lost Battlefield.
The site of the Lost Battlefield is a hunting ground for the village, but the villagers have avoided the site because of their deep beliefs that the spirits of those who died there still inhabit the site.
On our inaugural trek to The Lost Battlefield in April this year, we were hoping to find the remnants of a make-shift Japanese hospital and, potentially, relics of guns and ammunition. While we did find all of this I never anticipated that we would find war dead.
As soon as I realised that Japanese and, potentially, Australian soldiers were buried at the site, I discussed with the villagers the need for those men to be identified and returned home. The villagers understood completely and have offered us every assistance.
79 Australians and 69 Japanese died at the Lost Battlefield. The bodies of five Australians and dozens of Japanese soldiers were never found and are currently listed as Missing Presumed Killed in Action. Our hope is that we have found those fallen soldiers, and that they can be identified and returned to their families for appropriate burial.
The Lost Battlefield is remarkable because it is a living museum to a battle that was fought over four days and four nights almost 68 years ago. It contains, weapons, ammunitions (both fired and unfired), helmets, bayonets, knives, water bottles and much other military hardware and medical equipment. These items are lying where they were fired, lost, dropped, used or left. The site is littered with weapon pits from where the Japanese fought and the Australians attacked. On my first brief visit I estimated 50 – 100 weapon pits and a frontage for the position of 250 metres. On my second visit we confirmed a frontage of at least 500 metres and weapon pits in excess of 200.
The site of The Lost Battlefield is some distance and some height from the very forward Japanese outpost just above Eora Creek. This is a Japanese Battalion position at least, a site that could be up to 1,000 square metres. We have not yet scratched the surface of this position and what is to be found there.
The Lost Battlefield Trust has been formed with the intent to re-instate and preserve “The Lost Battlefield” and “The Japanese Hospital” as close as possible to the state the sites were in on 29 October 29 1942.
The Trust is determined to maintain this pristine “Living Museum” with weapons and surgical equipment where they were last fired or used; defensive pits and track plans as they were last operated; ordinance where it was discharged and, for the soldiers recovered from the site, their final resting place.
The Lost Battlefield Trust will be privately funded by the Trustees and through private philanthropy. Donations can be made through www.thelostbattlefield.com.au.
The overarching objectives for The Lost Battlefield Trust are to improve the health, living conditions and employment prospects for the Alola villagers and to re-instate the site in dedication to the Australians and Japanese soldiers who fought and fell there during 1942.
From here, we will continue to work with the Alola village and the respective Governments to preserve the site in its current pristine condition. Our priority is to identify and repatriate the fallen soldiers and to honour their memory by ensuring all other elements remain intact and untouched.
The site of “The Lost Battlefield” is owned by the Alola villagers and they will have the sole guiding rights to the site. I understand that there will be considerable interest from people wishing to visit this historic location. However, until all the bodies have been repatriated by their respective Governments; no groups will be permitted to trek to “The Lost Battlefield”.
This short term restriction on access will ensure the fallen soldiers are identified and returned to their families as soon as possible. During this time expert opinion will be sought on how best to ensure “The Lost Battlefield” is preserved for future generations.”
On Monday, 8 June 2010 I was joined by adventurer David Moffatt, world champion endurance paddling champion John Jacoby, and triathlete Chris Bradford on a unique journey to The Lost Battlefield.
Our pilgrimage encompassed mountain biking 880km from Cape Tribulation in North Queensland to the tip of Cape York, paddling 240km to Papua New Guinea, then hiking the 96km Kokoda Trail from Ower’s Corner to Kokoda via The Lost Battlefield.
Please see "The Journey" section of this site for more details.
